Naughty heavy bottle (they seem to have mended their ways

The dryness should round out in time as there is no associated sense of astringency

candied flowers and exotic spices

The wine is redolent of cherry liqueur

These two new releases from proprietor Roberto Conterno are stellar

Henriot, Brut Millesime Vintage:2008 Naughty heavy bottle (they seemMineral and sleek with notes of lemon zest, white grapefruit, apricot stones, white pepper and hints of jasmine tea, opening up to praline and almond pastries. Its medium bodied, with beautiful balance and freshness. Very fine bubbles. Saline and intense finish. Drink or hold.